Day to spare: Connemara

Where does it begin and end?

Connemara has no marked boundaries. The safe answer is that it forms the western portion of Co Galway, between Ireland's largest lake, Lough Corrib, and the wild Atlantic coast, and includes numerous offshore islands, some of which are inhabited.

main attraction?

In an area of land that can be circumnavigated by car in a single day, there are two formidable mountain ranges that change in colour and mood as the clouds hurry through. There are rust-coloured expanses of primeval bogland interspersed with misty, lily-strewn lakes; bleak limestone moonscapes and geometric grids of dry-stone walls; deep-green pastures where Connemara ponies graze; sudden pockets of palm trees and improbably giant vegetation nurtured by the Gulf Stream; a mazy, deeply indented coastline of sheltered inlets, sea loughs and some of the finest sandy beaches in Europe.

getting active

The hunting, fishing and shooting fraternity regard Connemara extremely fondly, but field sports are only part of the story. There are numerous scenic walks in the hills and along the coast, where the sweeping sands of the Renvyle peninsula and Dogs Bay are perfect for horse riding and pony trekking.

The riding school at the tiny port of Cleggan (095 44 746; www.clegganriding centre.com) organises three-hour treks along the beach, crossing to Omey Island at low tide. Connemara Trails (091 841 216; www. connemaratrails.com) offers extended riding tours across the region, taking in all the major sights.

Cyclists relish the quiet, twisting roads. Recommended routes include the three loops out of Clifden to the west coast's most attractive villages: Ballyconneely, Cleggan and Roundstone.

On the far western tip of the mainland, the Connemara Championship links (095 23 502; www.connemaragolflinks.com) has a classic seaside layout both revered and feared by golfers. A round costs between €40-€65 depending on the time of the year and the day of the week.

on rainy days?

For a fascinating glimpse of the past, make for the Connemara Heritage and History Centre (095 21 808; www.connemaraheritage.com) at Lettershea, near Clifden. The centre opens daily from April to October, 9am-6pm; admission €7.50.

Another dwelling of historical importance is Pearse's Cottage, in a gorgeous, lake-strewn setting near Rosmuck on the south coast. The house is open daily from June until mid-September, 10am-6pm, and around Easter from 10am-5pm; admission €1.60.

On the east side of Connemara, near the gateway town of Oughterard on the banks of Lough Corrib, Aughnanure Castle is a finely preserved example of a Galway tower house, of which about 200 were built by aristocratic families for protection against their enemies.

It costs €2.90 to tour the tower house, which opens 9.30am-6pm from mid-March until the end of October.

On the road between Oughterard and Galway, Brigit's Garden (091 550 905; www.brigitsgarden.ie) is a charming and magical addition to the tourist trail. Its English-born designer, Jenny Beale, has turned several hectares of park and woodland into an open-air celebration of Celtic mythology and traditions. The gardens open daily from May to September, 10am-5.30pm, closing at 6pm in July and August. Admission in summer costs €7.50; €5 for children.

inland cruises

Lough Corrib, which separates Connemara from County Mayo, contains much of interest. Fish, for a start: its limestone-rich waters encourage brown trout to grow rapidly, and it attracts anglers from all over the world. Scenically it scores highly, too: most of the islets are densely wooded, and one of the most beautiful -- Inchagoill -- is a halfway stop for excursion cruisers that shuttle between Oughterard and Cong, on the northern shore. Corrib Cruises (092 46029; www.corrib cruises.com) runs six round-trips per day. You can visit the island, which has early Christian ruins, and return to Oughterard for €18 or go all the way to Cong and back for €28.

Further west, cruising the Killary Fjord is the best way of appreciating this extraordinary glacial phenomenon at close quarters, as the mountain on the north side drops almost sheer to the water from upwards of 2,000 feet. Killary Cruises (091 566 736; www.killarycruises.com), based at the village of Leenane, runs up and down the fjord up to four times a day; the adult fare is €21.

can we go to the Islands?

Definitely. The best known are the Aran Islands, a group of limestone slabs 20km off the Connemara coast in Galway Bay. The three inhabited islands are full of historical, cultural and botanical interest, with a distinctive atmosphere that sets them apart from the mainland. Accommodation options include the comfortable and lively Aran Islands Hotel at Kilronan (099 61 104; www.aranislandshotel.com), where bed and breakfast starts at €130 and there are frequent live music performances.

The two lesser islands -- Inishmaan and Inisheer -- have maintained a rustic pace of life, with farming and fishing engaging more of the population than tourism, although they too have ruins, fine walks and sheltered beaches.

The other island worth seeING is Inishbofin, 10km off the west coast opposite Renvyle Point. Inishbofin's scenery is more varied than the Arans, with rugged cliffs, peaceful lakes and a string of white-sand beaches.

Contact Connemara Tourism, Clifden: 00 353 95 22 622; www.connemara.ie.

Where to stay

Near the village of Cashel, Cashel House Hotel (095 31001; www.cashel-house-hotel.com) was built in 1840 by the great-great-grandfather of the present owners, who themselves have been running the place since 1967. Doubles start at €95 per night, rising to €135 in high season.

Out on the far western Renvyle Peninsula, the Renvyle House Hotel (095 43511; www.renvyle.com) is another gem of a holiday retreat. Bed and breakfast ranges from €85-120 between April and September, dropping to €55 out of season.

For a touch of Irish romance, Ballynahinch Castle (095 31006; www.ballynahinch-castle.com) is the obvious choice. Standard rooms, which include breakfast, start at €120, rising to €135 in summer.

- Frank Partridge