January 2009 Archives

From Golf International

The US dollar buys more Euros than it has since 2006 -- practically 20% more. Trans-Atlantic airfares are at bargain rates and car rentals, restaurants and most other elements that go into a vacation trip, have all shaved their prices.

Ireland will always be associated with its warm, friendly people and their gift for story telling. Think of Ireland and images of pubs and Guinness, thatched roofed cottages, castles and quaint fishing villages; green, rural landscapes and rugged coastlines, filled with natural beauty, all spring to mind. To any golfer the picture also brings up visions of glorious links courses. Golf is as much a part of Ireland as anything and golfers are being drawn to the Emerald Isle in ever-growing numbers.

The first time visitor will probably be chasing after a few of the more famous names located in the southwest, such as Ballybunion, Lahinch, Doonbeg and Waterville, or Northern Ireland's top ranked links at Royal County Down and Royal Portrush. Excellent as each of these courses are, there are many more golf gems to be found in other parts, most notably in the far west and northwest of the country.

The names may not be as familiar, but their challenge, charm and overall appeal, is every bit the equal of the household names and the genuine welcome waiting for visitors, perhaps even greater. This is the Ireland of an age gone by and a part of the country to be savored to the fullest.

For any who yearn for the good old days and an Ireland the way it used to be, it's still here and can be readily found in these less populated, westernmost reaches. In Counties Mayo, Sligo, Galway and Roscommon, extending north to the very tip of County Donegal, life goes on much the same as it always has. That's the way the folks out west like it, showing little regard for whatever century the rest of the world may be in.

Unspoiled and uncluttered with no hustle and bustle or thronging masses, this is where Mother Nature still reigns supreme. The coastline is spectacularly handsome; the landscapes breathtaking, the air crystal clear and life is easy going. This is the Ireland of yester-year, steeped in tradition with a history reaching back 5,000 years.

Any golfer should relish the opportunity to come to this side of the Emerald Isle; the golf courses remain very much undiscovered, but the quality is outstanding with a number of beauties that will tickle the fancy of even the most jaded golf traveler.

Connemara, Westport, Enniscrone, Carne and Rosses Point are only the beginning of the west coast chain of courses that extend non-stop to the most northerly point of County Donegal. Bundoran, Donegal's Murvagh, Rosapenna, Port Salon and Ballyliffin are layouts that must be played by any serious golfer. Each is a treat and guaranteed to provide an Irish golf experience ranking alongside the very best.

This is the undiscovered side of Ireland containing some of the country's most stunning natural beauty and because it's less known and less visited; the golf courses are never crowded, even in peak season. The people you meet on these courses of the West will be the local Irish and not other visitors from your home club, adding another dimension to your trip.

But don't limit your experience to only the golf - as big a temptation as that will be, there is a lot more to see and do. With more history to tell than most places in Europe, there is every reason to spend a little off-course time discovering some of this rich past for yourself. You don't have to be a history buff to quickly develop a real appreciation and respect for how life was, so long ago.

Pre-historic sites abound and even those with only a passing interest level in such things, can't fail to be impressed by Ceide Fields in North Mayo, a 50 centuries old, complete farm settlement, considered the oldest and best preserved such example in all Europe.

Visit the Aran Islands, a bastion of traditional Irish culture and language. In the 5th century, St. Enda brought Christianity to Ireland, establishing a long monastic tradition in Aran that would be protected for centuries The intriguingly austere landscape of the three islands is crisscrossed by a never-ending maize of dry-stone walls, stunning coastal views and a succession of large, prehistoric stone forts. The islands are famous today for their distinctive knitwear and for the traditional Aran costume, still worn by many of the locals.

The most impressive monastic remains in all Ireland can be found at Kilmacduagh in the South of County Galway. Founded in the early 7th century, the centerpiece is a huge round tower that leans precariously over a roofless, but otherwise, almost perfectly preserved cathedral. Nearby are the remains of several other churches that once depended upon the monastery.

Take time to visit the city of Galway, center of the Irish speaking regions and a lively university town. In Anglo-Norman times Galway was a thriving trading post and a stronghold surrounded by warring Gaelic clans. After the Cromwellian victories of the 1640's, many Irish, stripped of their lands were dispatched here to hell or Connaught as the province is called, to start new lives. Today Galway is a charming, lively town, filled with shops, pubs and restaurants and numerous examples of fine16th and 17th century architecture.

Imposing Kylemore Abbey, a 19th century fantasy of a wealthy English industrialist, is now run as an elite girls boarding school by Benedictine nuns. World famous for its walled Victorian gardens, Kylemore is one of the West's most popular visitor attractions.

Founded in 1750, the lovely town of Westport, nestled on the shores of Clew Bay, may be the prettiest in County Mayo and is well worth visiting. Wide tree lined streets with elegant Georgian buildings bring an unexpected air of charming sophistication to this, one of the few planned towns in Ireland and a tribute to 18th century urban development. Not far from town is Croagh Patrick, the 2,500-foot Holy Mountain where in 441 A.D., St. Patrick is said to have prayed and spent the 40 days of Lent. Among the many reasons to visit Westport is Westport Golf Club, one of the must-play courses of this part of Ireland.

The West is also famed for its festivals that run virtually throughout the year, but with an especially heavy schedule starting in March and running full tilt through October. There's hardly a small town or village that doesn't have at least a couple of festivals during the year and chances are there will be a few going on during your trip. There are festivals for Irish music, dancing, singing and folk drama; there are literary festivals and art festivals, fiddle festivals and classical music festivals. There are festivals for poetry and story telling and so it goes, the list is endless.

So if you are in quest of the Ireland of your dreams, the old traditional Ireland that may be more difficult to find around the major cities, be assured it's still here, alive and thriving in the West of Ireland. Go West and you will not only find the Ireland of an age gone by, but you will also discover some of Ireland's finest and still undiscovered golf.

Why this part of Ireland has remained a secret for so long is no mystery - its isolation from the rest of the country always kept it remote and more challenging to reach. But this is quickly changing as word gets out that any extra driving required is more than rewarded by the very special experiences to be gained, most unique to this part of Ireland. If you want to discover the last of the Emerald Isle's hidden golf gems -- to see and live the Ireland of yester-year, get there before the crowds.

Better go sooner rather than later, taking full advantage of our strong dollar, the bargain airfares and wonderful values that fill the west of Ireland -- and that warm Irish welcome is included, at no charge.

Read more here

United and Aer Lingus are expanding their recent codesharing partnership in move that The Wall Street Journal describes as "an unusual linkup." The Journal says "the airlines, which already cooperate on flights between the U.S. and Ireland, plan to begin with flights between Madrid and Washington (Dulles), starting in March 2010. Both carriers will market the flights and have their flight numbers on the route. But Aer Lingus will operate the planes and will be primarily responsible for costs, while United will take the lead on marketing tickets and generating revenue for the operation."

The Associated Press writes that "Aer Lingus' corporate planning director, Stephen Kavanagh, (said) Aer Lingus would provide the crews and aircraft for the Washington-Madrid service -- but the bulk of traffic would come from United's U.S. customers.

The deal comes at a time of unusual uncertainty for Aer Lingus,  that is now fighting off a takeover bid from European low-cost giant Ryanair.

The Aran Green roof project......
Thatch is traditionally used to roof Aran cottages,  but we are now building the first living green roof on the island. Watch the progress as Sean restores a dilapidated shed using locally sourced materials to make a snug environmentally friendly room that one day soon will be a studio, library, retreat and low carbon hideaway. Our thanks to one of Ireland's  foremost environmental and conservation specialists David Brickenden for his valuable  advice on this project
Watch the green roof grow here

LORNA SIGGINS, Marine Correspondent

THE CAPTAIN of the Asgard II has expressed confidence that the national sail training vessel can be raised from the seabed off north-west France.

Capt Colm Newport, who was responsible for the safe evacuation of all 24 fellow crew and trainees from the vessel last September, hopes that approval for the salvage will be given by Minister for Defence Willie O'Dea after a second survey. Capt Newport confirmed to RTÉ yesterday that the vessel's rigging was largely intact, and said that a salvage partner had been identified after a "fairly lengthy" tendering process.

However, the west Cork based company which is due to carry out a second underwater survey of the ship in mid-January says that trawling in the area could inflict damage upon the hull if it remains much longer on the seabed.

There's more

IT'S 3 a.m. at Doheny & Nesbitt, a favorite watering hole of Dublin's political and business elite, and the property tycoon Sean Dunne stoops to retrieve a penny from the pub's grimy floor.

One would think that Mr. Dunne, Ireland's best-known building developer, would be in bed at this hour. It's a weeknight, after all, and he has meetings that begin before first light.

What's more, the Irish economy, pummeled by the most severe housing bust in Europe, has collapsed. And the gossip around town is that Mr. Dunne, whose brazen deal-making and Donald Trump-like lifestyle epitomized the country's euphoric boom, might be going bankrupt.

But, no matter, a penny is a penny.
There's More

By Sarah Lyall

BUNDORAN, Ireland -- It was a typical late-winter day on the Irish coast, no worse than usual. Bands of black clouds sailed ominously across the sky. Rain bucketed down in freezing torrents. Icy winds pummeled and churned the ocean.

Joanne Fulton sat in her wet suit with a group of friends in a van in the parking lot above the beach, ashen and shivering.

This is après-surf, Irish style, and the whole enterprise has a unique and subtle appeal. "It is very, very cold," Ms. Fulton observed. "But once you get in, the wet suit keeps you warm. Although my hands actually have no feeling. Or my face and feet."

There's more

The Cripple of Inishmaan, currently being revived at the Atlantic Theater, is one of the plays by which Martin McDonagh became well known. (The others are The Beauty Queen of Leenane, The Lieutenant of Inishmore, and The Lonesome West.) All written in a short period of time, they're the plays of an intelligent young man out to make a name for himself, displaying all the good and bad qualities that situation implies. With their zestful storytelling and sardonic humor comes an ingenuity that sometimes turns glibly show-offy and manipulative. With their arrestingly dark vision comes a kind of smirking satisfaction in glutting the audience's appetite for unpleasantness or explicit violence.
more from The Village Voice's snarky review here

Speaking Synge

Stephen Gabis comes across like speech therapy. That's because Mr. Gabis is a go-to dialect coach whose craft can be heard on Broadway and beyond.
He just did a production of "The Playboy of the Western World" for Queens College, NY. It's one of the most difficult things. I find it tougher than Shakespeare, that particular play by John Millington Synge.
He went to the Aran Islands and literally listened to people through keyholes. English was the second language. Most of them spoke Irish Gaelic first, and the specific Gaelic of that province, of Connacht. It's written in convoluted language. You can't say "I love you." You say things like [speaking in an Irish accent], "It is to you I might be thinking of giving love next Thursday if I'm not milking the cows and stuck somewhere because I drank too much." [back to an American accent] It's a real roundabout way of speaking. It's tonal, like Chinese.
WITH talk of diphthongs and tongue positions, a dialogue session with  His fluency with accents helps make the rounded vowels of "The Seafarer" or the dropped r's of "To Kill a Mockingbird" sound authentic enough to sometimes fool even native speakers of the represented regions.
Read the full NYTimes profile here